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��ࡱ�>��	��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������[�	��G�bjbj����	��ΐΐdž%�����������EEE4����yyyh�T5|y�70�L�"2��D,$7777777$�8�|;�+79E3.233+7��d7y+y+y+3��8E7y+37y+y+:m0,-�0�����=Z*:�y�">�0
�6z70�7�0R\<#%$\<�0\<E�0�P"ry+���PPP+7+7G)2PPP�73333��������������������������������������������������������������������\<PPPPPPPPP�	�:	A Study on Comparative Hand Behaviour of Fabrics Produced from Different Natural and Man-made Fibres
B.K. Behera & Mukesh Kumar Singh  
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi-110016
Abstract
Selection of fibrous materials for different end uses is very important for making comfortable, sensible and fashionable clothes. Fabrics produced from different fibres for common use having areal density in a particular slit are not investigated precisely yet. In this paper, different natural and man-made fibres are tried in pure and different blends to study the comparative hand behaviour of corresponding fabrics.  Among all considered fibres, wool is found to be superior in winter application from hand point of view. Likewise silk offers highest hand value for summer application. However, polyester is a poor fibre from fabric hand point of view. It is therefore suggested that normal polyester fibre needs some modification so as to offer satisfactory hand behaviour. This paper provides fundamental database of various fibre properties and their effect in designing better hand fabrics.  

Keywords:   Primary Hand, Total Hand Value (THV), Tensile Energy, Compression 
                      Energy, Fullness 

INTRODUCTION
The world is enriched by different natural and synthetic fibres which have its signature properties; like wool, a natural elastic fibre, silk, first microdenier natural fibre, linen for feel of freshness and magnificent brilliance and acrylic, the fiber extensively using as replacement of wool etc. The fashion towards comfortable and elegant fabrics made the way to design the fabric by a more scientific approach. The situation becomes more interesting when different textile fibres are blended to extract some unusual comfort and aesthetic properties. Residual elongation and initial modulus of fibres are two prime criteria to decide the blending possibilities of two different staple fibres[1]. Fibres have a wide range of cross sectional shape like wool is having circular to oval while silk is having trilobal cross section. Fibre cross sectional shape plays important role to decide the yarn packing density that ultimately decides the low stress mechanical behaviour of corresponding fabrics2.  Fabric measurement technology provides the basis upon which textile and clothing technologists can use modern scientific and engineering principles to develop new fabric and clothing products suitable for specific uses. The availability of definitive fabric specifications based on the measurement of fabric mechanical surface and other physical properties provide a clearly defined goal for the development of new products [3-6].
To produce the high quality fabric, scientific control of each manufacturing process beginning from fibre manufacturing should be scrupulously assessed.  Judiciary selection of fabric constructional parameters using scientific principle of design engineering is essential for producing higher quality fabric. Selection of fibres for different end use applications is equally crucial for making comfortable and fashionable clothing [7-13]. In this contest, role of fibre characteristics on fabric low stress mechanical properties and handle is studied in detail.

MATERIAL AND METHODS 
All possible major apparel grade fibres in pure form as well as different blends are taken for this study (Table 1). 
Yarn Preparation
Wool and wool blend yarns were prepared by opting standard worsted yarn manufacturing system. Similarly other yarns were prepared on appropriate industrial yarn spinning systems.
Fabric Manufacturing 
The fabric samples were woven on the high speed shuttleless looms. Fabrics from all types of yarns were woven to keep the fabric areal density 115-140 grams per square meter. 
Chemical Processing  
The usual prescribed chemical processing were given to different type of fabrics in controlled laboratory conditions like Scouring-Stentering-Decatising (For woolen)- Singing, Soaping   and Drying �Mending-Shearing-Softening- Pressing- Decatising-Super Finish
Evaluation of Fibre Properties
Tensile Properties
The tensile behaviour of fibres were measured on Tensile Tester, Instron 4302 as per ASTM D 3822-01. 
Bending Rigidity 
The fibre and yarn bending rigidities were tested on pure bending rigidity tester �Kawabata Evaluation System KES FB2�. Paper windows of  EMBED Equation.3   having 10 mm slot for fibre exposure to pure bending were prepared. On a single window 90 fibres were mounted for a single test. Maximum curvature was kept 2.5cm-1.
Fibre Diameter
Fibre diameter was measured on Leica Optical Microscope in absence of compensator and average of 100 observations was considered.

Fibre Denier
Fibre denier for all fibre samples was computed by measuring the weight of a known length of fibre using a digital balance having least count 0.1 mg 
EVALUATION OF YARN PROPERTIES 
Yarn Hairiness 
The yarn hairiness was tested on the Zweigle hairiness tester. The instrument works on optical principle and counts the number of hairs having different lengths from 1 mm to the highest length as a set during yarn testing. The 200 meters of yarn was tested at 100 meter/min for one observation. Average of 10 observations is reported here. 
Tensile Testing of Yarn 
The tensile properties of the yarns were tested on Instron tensile tester keeping standard testing conditions as per ASTM D 2256-02. 
Evaluation of fabric low stress mechanical properties 
Low stress mechanical properties such as tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface roughness and friction were measured on Kawabata fabric evaluation system (KESF) using standard procedures as prescribed by Kawabata and fabric hand values were estimated using KES  set of equations for fabrics  of different end useapplications.
Air Permeability 
Air permeability was measured by the Textest FX 3300 air permeability tester. The testing was carried out using test area 5.08 cm2 and test pressure 100 pa. An average of 20 observations is reported here. 

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Fibre Properties
The tensile behaviour of fibres were evaluated to know their response during stretching so that suitable preventive measures could be taken during their further processing like, carding, drawing, and sizing etc. Different textile fibres are subjected to different stress levels from fibre to fabric processing. Hence, residual elongation of these fibres plays an important role to finalize the ultimate fabric properties. Fibre modulus and bending rigidity are also important aspects that influence the fabric hand behaviour. Mechanical properties of various fibres are shown in Table III. The results show that wool is most extensible fibre with lowest modulus while linen is the 
least extensible fibre among all the fibres under investigation. It clearly indicates that the blend of wool with linen is very critical and linen fibre may lead to break when stretched between two pair of rollers.  The logics behind the selection of different blends are given below:
Nylon:Wool - The blending of nylon with wool makes the fabric more absorbent and softer. It becomes more strong and durable.
Wool/Cotton - These two fabrics benefit from the inherent qualities of each other after blending. It is expected to give better comfort, better aesthetics and better hand performance.
Wool: silk blending provides subtle texture to the fabric. Silk component compensate the irritating feeling of wool component.  It is generally used for ties.
Wool: Acrylic - These two blends help the fabric to be easily taken care of and it is less stiff than pure ramie fabrics
Wool: Synthetics or Rayon: Synthetics - These blends has a very clear finish and it drapes better and tailors easily. It has exceptional wearing qualities. The fabric is used for men's and women's suits and coats. 
Cotton: Polyester- The quality of polyester helps cotton to give a permanent press property. It is extremely soft, resists wrinkling and is easy to care for. This fabric is widely used as men's dress shirts and christening apparel
Wool: Linen fabric is noted as the fabric of luxury and comfort. It symbolises comfort and elegance.
Wool: Acrylic fibre blending is used to manufacture fabric to make the fabric easily washable, lofty and warmth feeling because acrylic fibre also has air filled pockets. The cost of wool fibre is another crucial aspect to blend different fibres with it  
Cotton: Bamboo- Cotton /bamboo blended fabrics are known for better absorbency, comfortable wear and antimicrobial action
Fibre Properties and Yarn Properties  
Fibre properties are not directly translated to yarn properties. Yarn spinning system, twist level, packing coefficient and fibre migration behaviour etc are major factors that influence the yarn properties which are made by identical fibres. The relation between fibre and yarn properties is complex, although some trends are easy to explain. Yarn extensibility comprehensively depends on the extensibility of constituent fibres. The residual extensibility of fibre and yarn is necessary to produce a superior quality fabric. Louis et. al. [14] has reported that higher breaking elongation cotton fibre produces a fabric of superior quality. The yarn properties are shown in Table 4.
The explanation of higher extensibility of wool and low extensibility of linen blended yarns is clearly evident.  Low extensibility of linen is well anticipated of highly crystalline structure of linen fibres with healthy lignin content while low crystalline, helical structure   of wool fibre exhibited a higher extensibility both at fibre and yarn stage. Wool and Silk blended yarns revealed a lower extensibility while wool and silk both fibres have high degree of extension individually. The reason for this is obvious; the similar range of extensibility offers a strong adhesion between wool and silk which probably restricts the relative movement between adjacent wool and silk fibres. Wool / cotton   blend yarn exhibited a high extensibility and that may attribute to a wide difference in staple length of both constituent fibres. The wide difference in staple length is behaving like a continuity defect and probably due to a lower cohesive force between cotton and wool fibres in yarn form. Bamboo and viscose, both regenerated cellulosic fibres exhibited the extensibility close to natural fibres like silk and wool. As the low extensibility cotton fibre was mixed with bamboo, the yarn extensibility dropped significantly.
Fibre Properties and Yarn Hairiness 
A yarn spun from fine fibres is less hairy as compared to one that is spun from coarser fibres. It is because of the centrifugal force acting on fibre during ring spinning, which is directly proportional to fibre linear density. The fibre migration theory during ring spinning holds good in deciding the hairiness of yarns. Fibre bending rigidity is also one of the important deciding factors to yarn hairiness. Fibres with higher bending rigidity are more difficult to be consolidated into the yarn form and more prone to protrude out as hair from yarn assembly which is obvious from very high hairiness value in wool/linen yarn (Table 4).  
Fibre and Yarn Bending Rigidity 
Fibre bending rigidity and cohesiveness of constituent fibres inside the yarn are important deciding factors of yarn bending rigidity which is obvious from Table 2 and Table 3. Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. has revealed in a study that the fibre cohesiveness in the yarn assembly develops by their crimp and twisting phenomenon. Higher bending rigidity of linen fibre is responsible for a higher bending rigidity in yarn; however, a significantly higher bending rigidity in case of wool/mulberry silk yarn is because of a high degree of cohesiveness between these two kinds of fibres. This high cohesiveness is due to the considerable stickiness between superfine silk and highly crimped wool fibres. 
LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES 
Tensile behaviour 
 The tensile behaviour is shown in Fig. 1 and Table V. The extensibility (EM) gives the tensile extensibility under strip biaxial extension. EM has a good correlation with fabric handle. The higher the extensibility, the better is the fabric quality from the point of view of handle. A high EM value also signifies greater wearing comfort. Fabric extensibility generally increases with increase in areal density. This implies that heavy fabrics might give better handle property, due to their higher extensibility at low stress deformation.

The product of extensibility and stress at low stress level is tensile energy (WT) which is a representation of toughness of the material.  Low tensile energy causes low extension at low stress level. The fabric made with 100% wool fibre has high tensile energy means easy to extend but when blended with linen, the tensile energy rises further which indicates that fabric becomes easy to extend because linen is comparatively stiff fibre and restricts the close packing of wool fibre in blended yarn and results highest tensile energy. This can be safely said that blending of linen fibre with wool is beneficial from tensile extensibility point of view. The tensile energy of wool and wool blend fabrics is quite higher than PET fabric and this may be attributed to the low modulus of wool and high crimp level with natural elasticity of wool fibre. It is expected at low stress level that only de-crimping of individual fibres in yarns and de-crimping of yarn in fabrics are performed. The tensile energy of 100% cotton (F12) fabric is close to PET fabrics due to its low extensibility and higher crystallinity (Cotton crystallinity as about 67% with very high molecular weight). The bamboo and viscose fibres, comparatively low molecular weight cellulosic and low crystalline fibres than cotton show comparatively higher tensile energy than cotton and PET fabrics. The 100% PET fabrics have lowest tensile energy in present all three samples (F9, F10 and F11) means low extension at low stress level. The bending rigidity of PET fibre was very less (Table III) comparatively and giving close packing in yarn form. This may be attributed to the fibre fineness and diametric uniformity of PET fibres which offer a very close packing in yarn form. The tensile energy (WT) has exhibited a good compatibility with total hand value (winter) of fabrics (Fig.1)
Bending Rigidity of Fibre, Yarn and Fabric
The bending rigidity (B) is a measure of ease with which fabric bends. The bending stiffness of fabric depends on the bending rigidity of constituent fibre and yarns from which the fabric is manufactured. The fabric construction and nature of chemical treatment given to the fabric are also important factors to influence the bending rigidity of the fabric. The results are shown in Table 3,4 & 5 and Fig.2.

Fibre bending rigidity and cohesiveness are important driving forces of yarn bending rigidity that propagates as an important characteristic to finalize the fabric bending rigidity. The fine polyester fibre has very negligible bending rigidity is governing the yarn bending rigidity because soft fibres are able to held together strongly and giving a higher packing index to eventuate the higher yarn bending rigidity. PET yarns in all three forms such as staple yarn, twisted filament yarn and intermingled zero twist yarn are posing higher bending rigidity among the all eleven samples and nearly similar trend is observed for their corresponding fabric bending rigidity (Fig.2). The PET fabric made from staple yarns exhibits higher bending rigidity as compared to filament fabrics which may be attribute to the lower GSM of PET10 and PET11 than PET9 fabric samples. 

Fibre, yarn and Fabric Extensibility 
Fibres have residual extensibility in same range adds higher cohesion and restricts the relative motion of constituent fibres in the yarn. The air permeability of wool and wool/silk blended fabrics also supporting this concept as observing from Table 4,5 and 6. The air permeability of fabric samples F1 and F2 (pure wool and silk fabrics) is moderate. The cause of this justification of this trend is clearly evident that although extensibility of both constituent fibres are comparable but statistically different consequently constituent fibres are following different path at moderate stress level which is exerted during air exertion. Same explanation for air permeability and yarn is applicable in case of wool/cotton, wool/acrylic and wool/nylon fabrics.
Polyester fabrics F9, F10 and F11 are exhibited very low extensibility at low stress level. The yarn modulus may be deciding factor in yarn extensibility. In PET yarns the initial modulus values are quite higher than other yarns and same trend is maintained at fabric stage. It is evident from Table 4 &5 that blending of natural fibres with PET in which extensibility is not in same span, having lower modulus which was absent in case of 100% PET yarn where all constituent fibres or filaments have similar extensibility. 

Fabric Shear Rigidity, Extensibility and Air Permeability
The shear rigidity of a fabric depends on the mobility of cross threads at the intersection point, which again depends on weave, yarn diameter and the surface characteristics of both fibre and yarn. From the point of view of handle, the lower the shear rigidity, the better the fabric handle would be. The shear rigidity of woolen fabrics is higher then its blends. The reason is quite evident that specific surface structure of wool fibre gets locked with each other by post weaving operations giving a papery feel. Wool /silk blended fabrics have shown lowest shear rigidity presumably due to the quite different surface structure of both wool and silk fibres which allow a relative movement between fibre to fibre and yarn to yarn at low stress level. Similar reason can be attributed to justify the highest shear rigidity for PET fabrics having pure polyester yarn in both warp and weft direction. The 100% cotton fabric�s shear rigidity (G) is 2.224 cN/cm.degree which reduces to 1.221 cN/cm.degree after blending 40% bamboo fibre. The shear stiffness of F13 and F14 fabrics are 0.404 and 0.226 cN/cm.degree which is significantly lower than cotton fabric. Here it can be safely stated that after blending two fibres having different surface geometry, shear rigidity drops down which is helpful to manufacture a fabric of better hand value.
As the shear rigidity of wool and wool blended fabrics increases, THV (winter) decreases. This trend is observed for most of the wool and wool blended fabrics but the relation in case of PET and cellulose based fabrics is quite complex as reflected in Fig 2. 

Fabric Compressibility
The compressibility of a woven fabric is mainly decided by constituent yarn packing density and yarn spacing in the fabric. During fabric compression, firstly, the protruding fibres get compressed in fabric surface, subsequently yarns get compressed by movement of constituent fibres and finally fibre itself gets compressed and its corss-sectional shape gets changed [15]. Compressibility offers a feeling of bulkiness and spongy property in the fabric. Compressibility has some intimacy with fabric thickness; the higher the thickness, the higher the compressibility and it relates with primary hand value (Fukurami or fullness) of the fabric.
The woolen fabrics show a moderate compressibility in terms of compression energy at low stress level. This may be attributed to the scaly structure of wool fibre that restricts very high fibre to fibre surface contact in woolen yarns and yarn to yarn in fabric form which is further enhanced in case of blends of dissimilar fibres with wool in terms of surface geometry, extensibility and modulus. The polyester fabrics are very hard which is clearly observed by very low compression energy and this may be attributed to highly fibre to fibre and yarn to yarn surface contact reducing the free space for any relative movement between fibres and yarns and making the fabric more papery. Su et. al [16] reported that the blending of plus shape polyester fibre with cotton improves the softness and wickability of the yarn. This is a indication that as shape factor of the fibre increases, the compressibility of yarn and fabrics increases. These findings support that blending of wool and silk with circular cross section fibres improves the compressibility.  
The fabric F7 made from wool: nylon (80:20) has offered highest compressional energy (WC) and this may be attributed to the elastic nature of both wool and nylon fibres at low stress level. The fabric samples F12-F15 have exhibited a better WC which is again  due to comparatively higher extensibility and low modulus of these fibres (Table II). The non-circular cross sectional shape is also playing a positive role in enhancing the WC. The higher compressibility of these samples can also be due to higher fabric areal density (Table I). 

Total Hand Values 
The THVs of the fabric is estimated with the help of various primary hand values using the Kawabata-Niwa equations by KES system. This is necessary to mention here that all samples under this study have shown comparatively low hand value because of improper finishing conditions set in laboratory miniature processing equipment. The results depicts that most of the fabrics exhibited higher THV for winter applications as compare to summer. This is mainly due the presence of wool fibre and its unique properties like crimp, scaly surface and highly elastic nature. Although, few of the fabrics exhibited suitability for summer applications when blended with cotton which is well known for its suitability in summer. It is obvious from Fig. 3 that 100% woolen fabrics are most suitable for winter applications due to uniqueness of wool fibre. Synthetic blends with wool have a higher bulk and related fullness essential for winter applications because of artificially introduced crimp in synthetic fibres. The wool: linen blended sample revealed a maximum winter THV (i.e. 4.34) this may be attributed to   high bulk and compressibility of fabric which is essential for better THV. The property of linen blended yarns can be attributed to the fact that linen is much coarser fibre in comparison to wool or silk. Due to fibre migration in ring spinning, linen come on sheath and generate more hairy yarn which gives bulkiness, sponginess and eventually higher compressibility leading to higher winter THV.  Wool: mulberry silk and wool/cotton blends also give good handle when a proportion of wool is taken in the composition. The wool: cotton blended fabric is showing higher winter THV than 100% cotton fabric F12 as shown in Fig.3. This can be justified  on the basis of wool fibre characteristics which  is more elastic, less crystalline, and having higher staple length than cotton. Moreover, presence of cotton fibre further improved the hand value.
The blend of wool with PET revealed a better THV due to the fact that the PET fibres are more consistent in uniformity to give better blending intimacy with wool fibre.  100% bamboo (F13), 100% Viscose (F14) and cotton: bamboo blended fabric (F15) exhibit good THV (winter) and this may be attributed to the low modulus, higher extensibility and non circular cross section. The slightly higher GSM of these fabrics has also contributed to enhance the winter THV. When a comparison is made between PET  fabrics F9, F10, and F11, the twisted filament yarn fabric (F10) presented the most suitable summer THV. This may be attributed to crispy feel of twisted filament yarn which is a desired hand characteristic in summer THV estimation. Wool/Cotton blend also exhibit a good THV (summer) because of the cotton component in the blend. Pure woolen fabric also posed a fine THV however in general, it may be inferred that worsted and woolen fabrics are not appropriate for summer application but there is a group emerging in society who prefer to wear wool blend for summer wear. 

Air permeability
Air permeability is described as the rate of air flow passing perpendicular through a known area under a prescribed air pressure differential between the two surfaces of a material. The initial warm/cool feeling of the garment during wearing is measured by the resistance of fabric to the flow of air. The higher the air flow value, the greater the intensity of the warm/cool feeling will be. The effect of air permeability on comfort properties is much greater when the speed of air is high, for example in furious winds. The results of air permeability, in terms of the amount of air passing through a unit fabric area per unit time are compiled in Table 6. The results show that wool and wool blend fabrics provide reasonably good  air permeability but the air permeability of 100 % PET  fabrics made by intermingled yarns (F11) and 100% cotton fabric (F12) is exceptionally low i.e. 5.26 cm3/cm2/s  and 5.51 cm3/cm2/s  respectively. The very low air permeability of  F11 may be attributed to the intermingled structure  which offer very fine loops in the yarn made by constituent filaments while the low air permeability of cotton fabric F12 may be due to the  higher hairiness of cotton yarns (Table 5) which actually forms a very fine mesh like structure in the inter-yarn stices. The fabric F10 consist highly twisted PET filament yarns shows highest air permeability to ascribe it to them with minimum yarn to yarn contact area due to twisted structure and more free space due to lower fabric cover while fabric thickness and GSM are almost same with F11 to transmit air more freely. In contrast, the F11 fabric having similar areal density made from intermingled warp and weft yarns exhibits very low air permeability and this can be attributed to the entangled structure with nodes of intermingled yarns. Gooijer el. al17 have also reported that multifilament yarns can not be modeled as cylinder which supports that nodes and entangled structure in intermingled multifilament fabrics have a crucial role in air transmission behaviour.  The fabrics from F13 to F15 are made of yarns having moderate hairiness offer moderate air permeability (Table VI).

Moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR)
An ideal fabric should allow water vapour on skin to pass through its pores, irrespective of the fibre material�s natural absorbency. The water vapour should escape at a faster rate than it is released by skin so that the wearer feels comfortable. In order to assess the MVTR through fabric in a steady state, vapour transfer is measured with a MVTR cell. The results are shown in Table 6 in terms of the amount of water passed in grams per 24 h per square inch of fabric surface area. 100% wool fabric (F1) shows a moderate MVTR but as blended with silk it enhances to 45.22% presumably due to formation of fine capillaries and providing more surface area for adsorption and diffusion of moisture in presence of fine silk fibre. Wool: linen blended fabric shows a lower MVTR and this may result to coarser capillary size due to the presence of coarser linen fibre with wool. Linen by its inherent nature is highly crystalline and comparatively less water adsorption regions are available on this fibre.  Blending of wool with cotton also offers a good MVTR because of relatively better hygroscopicity of cotton. As wool blended with hydrophobic PET fibre, MVTR drops significantly from 38.54 to 13.42% but as PET is replaced by nylon a slight rise in MVTR is registered. This may be attributed to higher moisture regain of nylon than PET.  PET fibre requires some structural modification to improve MVTR. Cellulosic fabrics made from cotton, viscose and bamboo fibres show higher MVTR.


Conclusion
This study revealed that the fibre properties are most important basis for handle behaviour of fabrics. Type of fibre in terms of its signature characteristics, are transferred from fibre to fabric but influence is not always directly related with low stress mechanical properties. In some fibre like polyester, lower fibre bending rigidity produced yarn of higher bending rigidity which eventually showed higher fabric bending rigidity. Linen being a stiffer fibre than PET, blended with wool provides better THV than pure PET fabric. The presence of cotton fibre affects the THV mainly due to its short fibre length, convoluting surface, and crimp which produce a softer yarn and softer fabric. Silk (mulberry) fibre has also proved a useful fibre to be blended with wool to develop unconventional high quality worsted fabrics. To achieve a better THV, care should be initiated right from the fibre stage. Polyester fibre needs structural modification to give higher THV and other comfort characteristics.

References
1.   Kawabata S. and Niwa M , (1998) Int.  J of  Clothing Sci &Tech 10 ( �),  263  
2.   Kawabata S.Ito K and Niwa M,      (1992),  Tailoring Process Control,  J. Text. Inst. 83, (3), 361
3.   Curiskis JI (1989) Textile Asia  (10)., 42-59
4.  Kawabata S. and Niwa M. (1989) � Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing  Manufacture�  J. text. Inst, 80, ( 1), 19-21
5.   Postle R (1989), Textile Asia  (7),  64-66
6.  Harlock SC(1989)  Textile Asia  (7), 66-70
7.  Postle R (1989) Textile Asia  (7), 72-81
8.  Curiskis JI (1989) Textile Asia  (10)., 42-59
9.   Harlock SC (1989) Textile Asia  (7),  89-98
10. Postle R (1989), Textile Asia  (10), 59-68
11. Peirce FT, (1930),J Text. Inst. 21,
12.  Mahar TJ, Wheelwrigh P , Dhingra RC and Postle R  (1990)  Text. Res J , (1), p 7-17
13. Shishoo RL (1995),   Int.  J of  Clothing Sci &Tech   7 ( 2/3),35-36
14. G.L Louis, L.A. Fiori and J.E. Sands, (1961)  Text. Res. J.  31(1), 43-51
15. M Matsudiara ,( 1999) �Physical testing of textiles� Ed. B P Saville The Textile Institute,  Woodhead Publishing Ltd., p 265-267
16. Su C I  and Fang J X (2006), Text. Res. J. 76(6), 447
17. Gooijer H, Warmoeskerken  MMCG and Wassink JG, (2003), Text. Res. J. 73, 483

Table I   Details of Fabric Samples using different Type of Fibres and its blends
Sample CodeBlendWarp count
(Ne)Weft count
(Ne)Ends per cmPicks per cmWeaveAreal density g/m2F1100% wool1/401/402824Plain150F2100% mul.silk1/201/2024192/1 twill180F3Wool: mul. silk (70:30)1/481/4833252/1 twill150F4Wool: linen (70:30)2/482/4827212/1 twill220F5Wool: cotton(65:35)1/201/2025212/1 twill190F6Wool: PET (50:50)2/382/3822192/1 twill175F7Wool: nylon (80:20)2/222/2215142/1 twill303F8Wool: acrylic (80:20)2/522/5224202/1 twill150F9100% PET (staple )2/402/4022182/1 twill140F10100%PET (filament- twisted:twisted)1/401/405230Plain120F11100%PET (filament- intermingled: intermingled)1/661/664730Plain118F12100% Cotton1/201/203224Plain190F13100% bamboo1/201/203320Plain195F14100% viscose1/201/203121Plain170F15Cotton: bamboo (60:40)1/201/203120Plain177
Table II Fabric low stress mechanical attributes from KES

TestLow �stress propertiesNotationUnitTensile testExtensibilityEMNoneLinearityLTNoneTensile energyWTgf cm/cm2Tensile resilienceRT%Shear testShear stiffnessGgf cm/degreeHysteresis at 0.5� shear angle2HGgf/cmHysteresis at 5� shear angle2HG5gf/cmBending testBending rigidityBgf cm2/cmHysteresis of bending moment2HBgf cm/cmCompressionLinearity of compressionLCNonetestThickness curveCompressional energyWCgf cm/cm2Compressional resilienceRC%Surface Coefficient of frictionMIUNonecharacteristicsMean deviation of MIUMMDNoneGeometrical roughnessSMD�mFabricWeight/unit areaWmg/cm2constructionFabric thicknessTmm


Table III Fibre Properties
Fibre TypeAvg. Dia (�m)Avg.  Fibre denierAvg. Bending Rigidity/tex2
(cN.cm2/tex2)
 EMBED Equation.3  -3 EMBED Equation.3  Average Initial Modulus
(cN/Tex )Average Extensibility
%Average Tenacity
(cN/Tex)PET (Staple)12.81.40.19 855.310.750.93PET
(Filament)06.70.80.06729.213.440.78Wool19.82.70.20 497.729.714.49Silk12.21.60.65 774.920.639.69Linen21.93.51.051812.52.555.08Cotton13.51.50.65 799.47.348.78PET(for blend with Wool)18.62.00.42 921.28.757.15Nylon15.62.00.881012.16.961.83Acrylic
Bamboo
Viscose16.5
16.0
15.82.0
1.5
1.50.50
0.45
0.48  885.1
  780.8
785.67.6
23.9
24.568.58
17.92
19.50

Table IV   Yarn Properties

BlendMax. Tensile Strength cN/Tex Extensibility 
%Bending rigidity
.c/cN.cm2/yarn EMBED Equation.3  10-3Hairiness 
(No. of hairs >3mm/km)Wool5.8813.890.233229Silk9.2011.100.22NAWool/Mul.Silk8.7307.580.842770Wool/Tussar silk9.1006.090.214740Wool/Linen5.0809.710.607321Wool/Cotton
Wool/PET
Wool/ nylon
Wool/acrylic3.49
14.14
11.25
8.5415.59
08.58
09.35
6.121.10
0.27
0.24
0.302219
2457
2345
2986PET(staple two ply yarn)24.2809.162.351965PET (Twisted filament yarn) 27.8211.329.51NAPET (intermingled filament yarn)28.2515.6111.19NACotton15.7104.2103.792528Bamboo12.0111.9400.471225Viscose13.7811.6800.71844Cotton/Bamboo13.9505.7501.091441

Table V Some Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Fabric
Fabric
 CodeBending rigidity 
cN.cm2/cmTensile energy
cN.cm/cm2Low stress extensibility
%Shear rigidity G
cN/cm.degreeCompression energy
cN.cm/cm2F10.05309.2107.270.5410.197F20.04208.2711.290.3620.129F30.04009.3907.110.2970.199F40.05413.5908.220.4820.211F50.03809.1815.990.3690.269F60.07210.3106.760.6220.229F70.09012.9906.210.7490.468F80.08010.4406.010.6700.278F90.09800.1400.530.9130.074  F100.07400.1600.750.8100.011  F110.04600.2101.050.9560.019  F120.11800.3501.532.6940.337  F130.03900.8904.200.4040.281  F140.03301.1805.380.2260.304  F150.07600.4901.941.4210.248


Table VI Transmission behaviour 
of Fabric Samples
Sample codeRelative water vapour permeability
% Air Permeability
cm3/cm2/sF135.5443.15F245.2222.67F341.4630.34F421.5309.44F537.4845.78F613.4242.33F716.7627.96F826.9938.09F915.4275.66F1017.42134.14F1114.4405.26F1256.1405.61F1359.8719.42F1459.7025.64F1559.6515.72



Fig.1 Tensile Energy of fabrics Vs. Total hand value (Winter)




FIGURE 2. Yarn and fabric bending rigidity




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