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BAMBOO AND LINEN FABRICS
*P.Karpagam, Research scholar, karpagam.psg@gmail.com Ph.no: 9578462862
Dr.Mrs.G.Manonmani, Associate professor, manomurali_jagan@yahoo.com. 
Dept of costume design & fashion, PSG College of arts and science.
*Corresponding author,
ABSTRACT
	Nowadays natural dye plays an effective role in textile dyeing. An effort has been taken by dyeing the fabric in a natural way called natural dyeing in order to eradicate the chemical based textile dyeing which produces harmful effect to the environment. The study enhances the natural dyeing of the textile material with ventilago madraspatna. The dyed fabrics were subjected to colourfastness evaluation to test the dyeing profile. 
Keywords: alum, myrobalan, ventilago madraspatna, natural dye
INTRODUCTION
	Uses of natural or herbal products always result in effective products which are needful to the current society. As the chemically dyed cloth causing various allergies, nowadays people prefer to wear naturally dyed clothes. Moreover the textile pollution contains its major shares in discharged harmful dyes from dyeing unit.  Also, these plays major reason for the health issues those who work in dyeing unit.
	Thus the current work has undergone to find the effect of natural dye with ventilago madraspatna. The bamboo and linen fabrics were chosen for the current study since bamboo fabric is very soft and many people who experience allergic reaction to other natural fibers, such as wool or hemp, do not complain of this issue with bamboo. The fibre is naturally smooth and round without chemical treatment, meaning that there are no sharp to irritate the Skin. (R.Hardin. et.al 2009). It  also has many antibacterial qualities, which bamboo fabric is apparently able to retain, even through multiple washing.
Thus it helps to reduce bacteria that thrive on clothing and cause unpleasant odors. (Karin .et.al 2005). Whereas Linen fabric feels cool to the touch. It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint-free, and gets softer the more it is washed.
METHODOLOGY
Selection of Material
Bleached Bamboo and Bleached linen fabrics of 40�s count was purchased from National textile corporation limited, Coimbatore.
Selection of Natural Mordant
Myrobalan (fig 1) and Alum (fig 3)  is a natural mordant and is chosen for the study. 
Preparation of Alum Pre Mordanting Solution
The recipe as given in table 1, Alum is ground to fine powder form (fig 4)  and mixed with water then it is taken as dyeing mordant. 5% of this dry powder is added to 250ml of distilled water in a beaker and then set to heat. The temperature maintained at 80o c to 90o c for 1hour. The hot solution was then filtered through a nylon cloth.
Pre Mordanting of Bleached Bamboo and Linen Fabric with Alum Powder 
The alum solution was added into dye bath. The fabric is allowed inside the dye bath for 1hr at the temperature of 400 c to 600c. Then the fabric was taken out.
Extraction of Myrobalan Pre Mordanting Solution
The recipe as given in table 2, The Myrobalan seeds were dried and ground to fine powder (fig 2). 5% of this dry powder is added to 250ml of distilled water in beaker and then set to heat. The temperature maintained at 800 c to 900 c for 1hour. The hot solution was then filtered through a Nylon cloth
Pre Mordant of Bleached Bamboo and Linen with Myrobalan Powder 
Myrobalan solution was added into dye bath. The fabric is allowed inside the dye bath for 1hr at the temperature of 600c to 900 c. Then the fabric was taken out.
Selection of Dye
Vembadam bark (fig 5)  is a natural dye source from eucalyptus tree which is chosen for the study.
Extraction of Dye from Vembadam Bark
 	   The rind of the vembadam bark (ventilago madraspatna) is dried and ground to a fine powder .The dry powder (fig 6)  obtained is used for the process of dyeing. Aqueous dye solution was prepared by adding 100g of the vembadam bark rind fine powder to1 litre of distilled water in beaker. The extraction was done at 600 c for 1hour. The hot solution was filtered through a clear filtrate. The filtered solution as in fig 7, was stored at 400 c and used for dyeing of bamboo and linen fabric.
Natural Dyeing Of Bleached Bamboo and Linen with Vembadam Bark 
The vembadam bark dye solution was added into dye bath containing bleached bamboo and linen fabrics. The temperature maintained was 600 c to 900 c. After 5 minutes 10 g/l common salt, was added to the dye bath. After 1 hr 2.5g/l soda ash was added and dyeing continued for further 15 minutes at 900c was washed thoroughly in cold water then squeezed and then shade dried.
	The bleached and dyed samples of bamboo and linen fabrics with both alum and myrobalan mordants were placed in fig 8.


Wash Durability Test (AATCC 124-1996)
        The durability of fabric samples were tested after different wash cycles. The samples were washed with 5% neutral soap solution for 20 min and dried. The washed samples were tested for the retention of functional properties after every 5, 10, 15 and 20 launderings using standard test methods
Evaluation of Colour Fastness
Colour Fastness to Washing
           Wash fastness of all dyed sample was measured by the ISO 105-C03 testing method. Dyed sample were taken, stitched with one of the shorter side of the adjacent   bleached  fabric and was put to the bath containing 3gpl of soap, 2gpl of sodium carbonate and 1:3 MLR ratio at 60C  for 30 minutes. Then the specimen was washed with hot water and cold water. 
Colour Fastness to Rubbing 
Rubbing fastness of all the dyed sample was measured by dry and wet rubbing method. The dyed sample was fastness to the flat base of the crock meter and the bleached bamboo and linen measuring 5cmx5cm was mounting the sample, the handle was rotated to ten complete turn at the rate of one turn per second to slide the covered finger back and forth twenty time. Then both the dyed and bleached fabric was evaluated with grey scale for change and staining. 
Colour Fastness to Sun Light
Sunlight fastness of all dyed sample were exposed to sun for a period of time and then compared with an unexposed sample. A sample size of 35cm x 12cm was cut from dyed bamboo and linen fabric the sample was divided in to nine equal parts and mrking was made on  the strip was covered with a back chart papers, marked with equal number of divisions. First division was exposed on sunlight. The second division was cut and exposed on sun light and so on. Finally the first division after exposure for seven days was assessed for colour change in comparison with the original using a grey scale rating. 
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Colour Fastness to Washing of vembadam bark dyed fabrics
            Colour fastness to washing of dyed bamboo fabric with alum and Myrobalan mordant sampleand dyed linen fabric with alum and Myrobalan mordant sample is shown in table 3.   It is found that the dyed bamboo mordents alum and Myrobalan sample shows good colour fastness.
Colour Fastness to rubbing of vembadam bark dyed fabrics  
       Colour fastness to Rubbing of dyed bamboo with alum and Myrobalan mordant sample, Dyedlinen fabric alum and Myrobalan mordant sample is shown in table 4. It is found that the Dyed linen fabric with alum and Myrobalan mordant sample shows good colour fastness.
Colour fastness to sunlight of vembadam bark dyed fabrics
            Colour fastness to rubbing of dyed bamboo fabric with alum and Myrobalan sample, dyed linen fabric with alum and Myrobalan mordant sample is shown in table 5. It is found that the dyed bamboo fabric alum and Myrobalan mordents sample shows good colour fastness.
CONCLUSION 
             Thus it can be concluded that natural dyeing performs good to its dyeing affinity and it can be used for the patients and for babies to control from the bacterial infestation. There will be no harmful allergies or irritations for the skin. Moreover the cost is comparatively low when using naturally dyed fabrics. So it is advisable to increase the naturally dyed fabrics commercially.                                        

REFERENCES
Chakraborty.J.N (2010) Fundamental and Practices in Coloration of Textiles 5th ed.., pp-1, 15, 214, 217, 326, Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, New Delhi,2010
Gopalakrishnna.D (2010) The South institute of Fashion Technology  Textile Industry February   
Gupta.K.A (2000) The Complete Technology Book on Dyes and Dye Intermediates pp -415, NIIR Board
Gupta.D (2000) Protective Properties of Textiles Dyed with Natural Dyes Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England P-182
Harin.R, Susan S.Wilson, renuka Dhandapani, (2009) AATCC Review Vol.9 No .10 pp 33-35 
Kthari.V.K and Sangeeth  yadav (2008) The  Indian  Textile  Journal vol.17 no.11 
Menezes. E Natural Finishing of Textile  The textile industry and trade  journal  pp 35-38 
Pharmacol J (2011) Journal  preliminary phytochemical screening and cytotoxic activity of ethanolic extract of ventilago madraspatana against human breast cancer Vol.5 pp 75-78 

                                                

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