Research Article, J Fashion Technol Textile Eng S Vol: 0 Issue: 2
Prediction of Fabric Bagging Occurred by an Artificial Arm Under Dynamic Conditions
| Vildan Sülar* |
| Faculty of Engineering, Textile Engineering Department, Dokuz Eylül University, Tınaztepe Campus 35397 Buca/Izmir, Turkey |
| Corresponding author : Vildan Sülar Faculty of Engineering, Textile Engineering Department, Dokuz Eylül University, Tinaztepe Campus 35397 Buca/Izmir, Turkey Tel: 0090 232 301 77 10 Fax: 0090 232 301 77 50 E-mail: vildan.sular@deu.edu.tr |
| Received: August 19, 2016 Accepted: September 16, 2016 Published: September 21, 2016 |
| Citation: Vildan Sülar (2016) Prediction of Fabric Bagging Occurred by an Artificial Arm Under Dynamic Conditions. J Fashion Technol Textile Eng S2:003. doi: 10.4172/2329-9568.S2-003 |
Abstract
In recent research, the bagging behaviour of fabrics occurred during the cyclic motions of an arm were investigated experimentally by using a set of woven fabrics. The new testing instrument similar to an arm and having an elbow joint was used and test fabrics were deformed under dynamic conditions. 22 suiting fabrics were used as test fabrics composed of 100% cotton and cotton blend, 100% wool and wool blend, 100% linen and 100% polyester fiber as raw material. Besides fabric bagging tests, fabric structural properties, tensile and bending properties were determined in the context of the study. All objective data were used to predict fabric bagging parameters. Regression analyses were performed by multiple linear regression models to predict residual bagging height.
Keywords: Fabric bagging; Artificial arm; Prediction; Suiting
Keywords |
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| Fabric bagging; Artificial arm; Prediction; Suiting | |
Introduction |
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| Textile fabrics are exposed to variable dynamic and/or static loads in temporary cycles which can cause change in the shape of garments. During wearing, the shape of a garment keeps changing, but due to the elasticity of fibers, these changes are temporary unless the stresses are too great or last too long [1]. Based on their elastic or viscoelastic character, the changes permanent and irreversible deformation can result if the stresses are great and last too long especially elbows, knees and hips of garments with woven and knitted fabrics [2]. It is an important property and many researchers have studied to evaluate fabric bagging behaviour theoretically and experimentally. There are several methods developed based on two main approaches to investigate the bagging behaviour of fabrics experimentally. Some of the researchers such as Şengöz [1,3-8] used an apparatus adaptable to a tensile tester to simulate fabric bagging. On the other hand, the researchers such as Grunewald and Özdil [9] used a device similar to an arm as described in DIN 53860 and they examined fabric bagging behaviour occurred on the elbow of an arm in static conditions. Abghari [10] investigated the relation of in-plane fabric tensile properties with woven fabrics bagging behaviour. Apart from the previous studies, Sülar [11] designed a similar device for bagging deformation of the fabrics under dynamic conditions simulating real arm movements and developed an optical system) to measure the bagging height in accordance with DIN 53860 [12]. | |
| In this research, the bagging behaviour of fabrics occurred during the cyclic motions of an arm were investigated experimentally by using a set of woven fabrics. The new testing instrument similar to an arm and having an elbow joint was used. Test fabrics were deformed under dynamic conditions and regression equations were conducted to predict fabric bagging occurred during the cyclic motions of an arm. | |
Experimental |
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| Material | |
| Fabric bagging is an important property and when it is occurred in the fabrics suitable for jackets, trousers and suiting the situation is more disturbing. From this point of view, 22 suiting fabrics were used in the current study. The test fabrics were composed of 100% cotton and cotton blend, 100%wool and wool blend, 100% linen and 100% polyester fiber as raw material (Table 1). | |
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Table 1: Some structural properties of fabrics used in experimental study. |
| Method | |
| All fabrics were tested under standard atmosphere conditions (20 ± 1°C temperature, 65 ± 1% relative humidity). After deforming fabrics by the newly designed artificial arm, bagging height values were measured by an optical system also explained in our previous study [11]. In recent study, all fabric samples were deformed at 45º deformation angles which is the angle at maximum deformation position and the bagging load and bagging height values were determined for two different bagging cycles such as 100 and 200. Residual bagging height values were calculated after 24 hours. Figure 1 shows a test fabric sample during bagging test. | |
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Figure 1: Test fabric sample during bagging test by artificial human elbow. |
| Besides fabric bagging tests, fabric structural properties, tensile and bending properties were determined in the context of the study. All objective data were used to predict fabric bagging parameters. Regression analyses were performed by multiple linear regression models to predict residual bagging height. The test instruments and the measured parameters with abbreviations were given in Tables 2 and 3. | |
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Table 2: Fabric mechanical properties determined in experimental study. |
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Table 3: Fabric bagging parameters measured in the experimental study. |
Results and Discussion |
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| In this study linear regression was used to model the value of a dependent scale variable based on its linear relationship to one or more predictors. RH100 and RH200 were the dependent variables for regression equations and the regression equations were obtained by stepwise regression method (Table 4 and 5). | |
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Table 4: Summary of the regression models obtained by using RH100 as dependent variable. |
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Table 5: Summary of the regression models obtained by using RH200 as dependent variable |
| The adjusted R2 values were determined between 0.748- 0.960. In these equations the parameters such as bending rigidity in bias direction, warp density, breaking elongation in bias direction, fabric thickness, fabric bending rigidity were entered in the regression equations. Table 4 shows the summary of the regression models obtained by using RH100 as dependent variable. Also in the second stage, RH200 was taken as the dependent variable .The adjusted R2 values were determined between 0.587-0.857 (Table 5). In these equations, it is very important that residual bagging height values were predicted with high adjusted R2 values by using maximum five different parameters. | |
Conclusion |
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| In this study a new bagging testing instrument by an artificial human elbow was used to simulate fabric bagging. Fabric structural, physical and mechanical were used to predict fabric bagging parameters. In our previous study [11], the new bagging tester has been shown that it has the ability to distinguish different fabric types for different deformation cycles and it can provide repeatable test results.Thus in the present study, it was used to predict fabric bagging from some fabric properties by using linear regression models. The parameters such as bending rigidity in bias direction (G3), warp density (S1), breaking elongation in bias direction (BE3), fabric thickness (T) and fabric bending rigidity (G) were entered in these regression equations with high adjusted R2 values. Especially bagging height values were found very evident for 200 cycles deformed fabrics. Combining bagging height and residual bagging height values, it is possible to say that this newly designed bagging tester can be used to examine fabric bagging occurred under dynamic conditions. It is concluded that especially fabric bending parameters are good predictors to predict fabric bagging. | |
Acknowledgment |
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| This study was supported as a scientific project and funded by the Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TÜBİTAK). The author is very thankful for their financial support. | |
References |
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